Paris Playground

The City of Light under sunny skies and with temperatures in the mid-70’s is like a giant playground for adults and children alike. (Dogs too. More on that later.) French schools are closed this week for spring break, and everyone seems to be on holiday. Pedestrians throng the sidewalks, patrons relax at outdoor cafés, cyclists and e-scooters whizz by in designated bike lanes, and every park bench, square and patch of grass hosts cheerful friends and families enjoying the fine weather.

We are here to celebrate the occasion of daughter Nicole’s 40^th birthday, along with her husband Robbie and brother Langdon. The pleasure of being in Paris is magnified by the joy of sharing favorite places and new experiences with them.

Genius travel planner Dave has outdone himself, booking two elegant adjoining apartments in a quiet neighborhood. We are within easy walking distance to the Place des Vosges, in the district known as the Marais, that has, over the years, become our “go-to” neighborhood in Paris.

Upon arriving, our first stop is a drink at Ma Bourgogne. Our familiar waiter is there, a little older, a little grayer—as are we—and we greet each other with wide smiles of recognition and a warm clasp of hands.

Over the years we’ve been visiting Paris we’ve noticed many changes, most of them positive, and on this visit, something that strikes me right away is the number and variety of well-behaved DOGS. Perhaps the dog park located a half block from our apartment is a contributing factor?

Whatever the reason, we cannot step foot outside our door without seeing dogs of all shapes and sizes, both on and off-leash, and all surprisingly well-behaved. (Apologies to non-dog lovers for the following brief photomontage of a select few of the many canines we encountered.)

Another “new” (to me) aspect of Parisian life is the prevalence of a drink called an Aperol Spritz. Pardon my naiveté, but I had never heard of this apparently popular—and cleverly marketed—Italian drink. Frequently consumed by Langdon, and by patrons in every bar and restaurant in sight, the classic recipe calls for 3 parts Prosecco, 2 parts Aperol (bitter, herbal & citrusy, analogous to Campari, but lower in alcohol) and 1 part soda water over ice, garnished with a fresh orange slice. While a coupe de champagne remains my usual apératif, there’s no denying the visual impact of this ubiquitous blood orange beverage.

Following a tip from a friend, our first morning begins with a visit to the Marché d’Aligre, where we are intrigued to find a vast selection of vintage postcards, clothing, artwork, tableware, textiles and much, much more, all at rock-bottom prices. (A kind vendor actually waives the price of a small, lemon-yellow handled spoon Anna would like to buy.)

When jet lag hits, we test several remedies: Caffeine, alcohol (preferably at the same time), and sugar, notably in the form of Carette macarons.

Another recommended jet lag cure: a cruise on the Seine, including champagne and hors d’oeuvres. Hosted by a charming husband and wife team who gave up high-pressure careers to buy a vintage boat and conduct charters on the Seine in Paris, our cruise is a very special way to celebrate Nicole’s 40th, and being in Paris together.

A visit to Paris would not feel complete without a meal at brasserie Bofinger, a browse around the Sunday Farmer’s Market on the rue Richard Lenoir, a hike up to Montmartre, and a sampling of classic French cuisine with a modern flair at Parcelles.

A new (to us) restaurant worth mentioning is Le Chardenoux, a recently restored Belle Epoque-era dining room in the 11^th arrondissement. We enjoy it so much that we return a second time. If you go, be sure to try the bar en croûte de sel (sea bass baked in a salt crust).

Topping off our week in Paris, a private elevator whisks us up to the rarified atmosphere of La Tour d’Argent roof terrace bar. Reservations and proper attire are required to visit this exclusive outdoor bar, only open seasonally and in fine weather. Fortunately, the afternoon is warm and sunny, we have booked in advance and our apparel passes inspection, thus we are ushered to a table where we enjoy cocktails and eye-popping views over Paris.

And now we must part ways with “les enfants”, as Dave and Anna head to the Gare du Nord to catch the Eurostar train to England. Stay tuned for the next blog post about returning to the Oxfordshire village where we lived for 5 years, and our further travels in the southwestern counties of Somerset, Devon and Dorset.